Last Updated on March 7, 2025 by Kiersten James, BS, RN
Learn everything you need to buy, raise, and care for baby chicks to start or add to an existing backyard flock.
While chickens are probably one of the easiest animals to raise, it’s important to do your research before bringing your babies home.
Since the pandemic hit, followed by insane egg prices from bird flu related egg shortages, there has been a renewed interest in self-sustainability.
People who never gave purchasing a dozen eggs from the store a second thought are now interested in raising their own backyard chicken flock. It’s truly a beautiful thing to see.
Chicken Farming 101
Egg-producing birds are called “layers” and meat birds are either called “meat birds” or “broilers“.
Layers are hens (female chickens), and meat birds can either be hens or roosters (male chickens).
Butchering is also referred to as “processing“.
Some breeds are considered “dual purpose” which means that the hens can be used for both egg production and meat.
Roosters are male and do not lay eggs. I used to think this was obvious until I started talking to people about our chickens lol.
Know Your Local Zoning Laws for Backyard Chickens
Before you do anything else, give the town hall a call or go on their website to find out whether or not you’re actually allowed to keep chickens in your backyard.
Some town codes can be pretty strict. HOA’s in particular carry tight regulations within their by-laws that can get complicated.
For example: even though we live in a rural area where farming makes up most of the local economy, roosters are banned entirely unless you get a special permit.
Set Goals for Your Backyard Chicken Flock
Once you know you’re allowed to have backyard chickens, the next step is to set goals.
The most common reasons people raise chickens are for insect control, pets, eggs, and meat. I had two very basic goals.
#1: Fresh eggs.
We go through a minimum of 10 eggs every single day. It’s a lot!
While having fresh eggs is not always cost-effective, we wanted to begin taking charge of our food security and increase self-sustainability.
#2: Natural insect control.
Our property sits right on the outskirts of a protected region spanning approximately 100,000 acres. It is beautiful, rural, and bustling with wildlife – including insects.
Commercial herbicides and pesticides aren’t an option for us, so raising a backyard flock was an easy “yes” for us to make.
Choose a Backyard Chicken Breed
After you’ve figured out why you want chickens, do some research to find the breeds that best fit your needs. Start with these:
Best Large Chicken Breeds for Total Beginners
My Favorite Egg Laying Breeds for Families
Some breeds are calm and like to be handled; some are abundant egg producers; some are fast growing for meat production; some are ornamental and meant to be pets; some are all four, and others are none.
I recommend narrowing it down to 3 different breeds that you’re interested in and take it from there.
Where to Buy Baby Chicks
The most common ways to buy baby chicks are through Tractor Supply Chick Days, online Hatcheries, and local breeders.
Tractor Supply Chick Days
Every spring, Tractor Supply company stores host an event referred to as “Chick Days”.
There, you can purchase chicks at the store in person or online. You will generally find 7 or 8 breeds to choose from.
If you order online, the chicks will be shipped to your local post office. Tractor Supply offers day old chicks (groups of 10) as well as pullets (groups of 4) for purchase.
Tractor Supply baby chicks are NOT vaccinated. Pullets are vaccinated for both coccidiosis and Marek’s disease.
Tractor Supply baby chicks are NOT sexed either. This means that you may end up with roosters and, if this isn’t what you want, you’ll have to have a plan for how to ethically rehome them
Personally, I don’t ever go this route and order from an online hatchery in Missouri.
Online Hatcheries
Online poultry hatcheries vary widely in their reputations and quality. If you are going to go this route, make sure you do your research.
At a bare minimum, the hatchery should be NPIP certified.
NPIP stands for the National Poultry Improvement Plan and is governed by the USDA. They provide oversight to ensure the hatchery poultry is not infected with pullorum disease, avian influenza, fowl typhoid, infectious synovitis, and others, which can wipe out and kill entire flocks before you even know they’re sick.
The benefit of a reputable online hatchery is their large selection of breeds, guaranteed bloodlines, availability of vaccinations, delivery time frames, and ability to pre-order far in advance.
I exclusively order from Cackle Hatchery and am always very happy with the experience.
Local Supplier
Starting your flock from a local supplier is the third option.
If you aren’t concerned about specific breeds or whether or not you end up with hens or roosters, this may be an option for you. Sometimes, they will offer a rooster swap and agree to take back any chicks that turn out to be male.
Be wary of anyone naming themselves as a “breeder” without documentation of proper bloodlines and infection control protocols. With very few vets offering poultry services, obtaining chicks locally is not for the faint of heart.
How to Buy Baby Chicks
High-quality chicks are a must if you want to avoid unnecessary heartache, hassle, and financial loss.
Chicks are sold either as straight runs, sexed groups, or as pullets.
Straight Run Chicks
A straight run is a group of baby chicks that have not been sexed and have not been determined to be male or female.
This is risky for those like us who are not allowed to have roosters on their property.
Sexed Groups
A sexed group are birds that have been identified as either male or female through various sexing methods.
Most large scale hatcheries hire a poultry professional who’s only job is to identify if a chick is male or female.
Pullets
Pullets are “started” female chicks that have been raised, usually to the age of 4 to 6 weeks, before being sold.
They are more expensive than baby chicks, but the convenience of knowing you’re getting a female is worth the cost for some.
Decide if You Want Your Baby Chicks Vaccinated
The two vaccines commonly offered for baby chicks are for coccidiosis and Marek’s disease. There is generally a small additional fee of several dollars for the entire order.
Merck Veterinary Manual provides an updated, although vague, set of recommendations for vaccinating backyard poultry. Vaccination for Marek’s disease was recommended in all cases.
Although you can decline initially and change your mind to vaccinate later, it is best to have it done during the first 3 days of the chick’s life. It’s a personal decision and yours to make.
Place Your Order And Await Shipment/Pick Up
Once you place your order and pick a delivery date, you will have some time to gather your equipment before delivery day.
The most widely accepted practice is ship the chicks via expedited mail service to your local post office when the chicks are around 12 hours old.
The post office will call you by phone to let you know your chicks have arrived.
Plan Your Schedule for the Week of Delivery to be Flexible
Baby chicks have a 3 day supply of nutrition from the yolk sac once they’ve hatched.
That being said, they may have had a rough first few days and will arrive tired, cold, hungry, and thirsty. The birds must be picked up the same day (as soon as possible) to have the best chance of survival.
In the few days prior to your delivery window, set up a brooder and test the heating source to make sure it works.
You’ll need to turn the heat on before bringing the babies home so that they can immediately go into a warm setting.
Delivery Day
As soon as you get your babies home, there are a few things you’ll need to do.
1.) Open the box and inspect the flock for health and viability.
Losses during travel usually need to be reported to the supplier by phone within 24 hours of delivery.
2.) Gently take each chick out and dip the beak into the waterer.
This shows them where it is and lets the others know, too. They will find the feed on their own when they’re ready.
3.) Inspect the chick’s eyes, beak, feet, legs, navel, and vent.
The eyes should be round, open, and clear without residue. The beak should be intact and closed, and the nostrils should be clear.
Legs and toes should be straight and freely moving.
The navel is located under the vent towards the belly and may have a scabbed remnant of the yolk sac – do NOT pull this off; if you do, you will likely tear the skin and/or fatally disembowel the chick.
The vent (butt) should be clean with no signs of pasty butt.
4.) Place the chicks under the heat source and leave them alone to relax and settle into their new home.
They had a rough first few days and will be in survival mode. Do everything you can to promote a quiet, restful environment.
They also will be super hungry, tired, and thirsty.
Now…on to the good stuff!
More Chicken 101 – What You Need to Get Started
Backyard chickens can be as affordable or as expensive as you make it. Here’s how you can give your baby chicks the best chance at a healthy beginning.
Baby Chick Brooder
A brooder is a warm, safe place for baby poultry that were hatched without the company of a mother. While it may sound intimidating, the options are endless.
Common DIY brooders are an oversized dog crate, cardboard box, kiddie pool, plastic tote, wooden box, galvanized watering tub, or an old playpen.
You’ll want to use a container that is large enough to provide 1/2 sqft per chick or enough room for them to spread their wings and move about comfortably.
If your brooder doesn’t have a lid, opt for a deep container so the chicks don’t jump or fly out when they’re left unattended for periods of time.
Make sure whatever lid you use allows for adequate airflow and ventilation.
Brooder Heat Source
Baby chicks require a very warm setting for the first 3 weeks of life, especially during cold weather months.
During the first week, a heat source will need to reach 95 degrees F for optimal well-being.
Drop the temperature 5 degrees each week until they are 3-4 weeks old when the heat source can be removed.
There are two options for a heat source: a heat lamp and a radiant heater.
Heat Lamp
The heat lamp is the classic source of heat for a poultry brooder. They are the most inexpensive option and are widely available. The lamp can be hung from above or clipped on to the wall of the brooder by a strong clamp.
Temperature zones underneath the lamp are regulated by raising or lowering the lamp. Most lamps come with a metal cage that encases the bulb to lower fire risk.
Lighting can be white or red and stays on 24 hours a day for at least 3 weeks. Red bulbs are less stressful for the chicks.
Radiant Heat
A radiant heat platform is the more modern version of brooder heating. Depending on how many chicks you have, this can run anywhere from $70-$250.
The temperature is regulated by raising or lowering the heat platform.
Like the heat lamp, this must stay on 24 hours a day for at least 3 weeks. This is the radiant heater from the picture above that I’ve used for the last 5 years.
Padding and Bedding
Although pine shavings are the standard for baby chick bedding, this is where I make a hard stop and disagree.
During the first week of life, those little legs are very similar to rubber as their bones have not yet hardened.
The main goal is to provide a safe, non-slip surface for them to walk on. Too much slippage can cause a condition known as spraddle leg.
Spraddle leg can be fixed with proper intervention at the first sign of deformity, but prevention is always best.
Newspaper, cardboard, wire netting (hardware mesh), and other slippery surfaces are not acceptable.
My favorite choices for brooder padding are paper towels, wee wee pads, or grip top cabinet liners.
They all make for super easy clean up and quick identification of any medical abnormalities which, often, first shows up in their poop.
Maintain a dry environment.
The chicks will likely make a mess out of their food and peck at it during waking hours. Although it can be frustrating, this is okay and normal happy behavior. Consider them to be like little toddlers.
After the first week passes and their legs are visibly thickened, you can switch over to low dust pine shavings.
Add about 4″ of shavings initially. Each day, add a 1″ layer of new pine shavings on top of the old ones to maintain dryness.
Once a week, scoop everything out and put down fresh shavings. This isn’t necessary but it keeps odors away. I transfer the chicks to a paper towel lined cardboard box while I clean the brooder.
If you have a compost system, the discarded pine shavings and chicken manure are excellent to throw in there.
Do not use hay, straw, or grass clippings at any age, as these promote the growth of mold and mites.
Cedar shavings should never be used as they are highly toxic to chickens.
Feeding & Watering
I’m not sure there’s anything baby chicks enjoy more than making a mess out of whatever is available.
While cute, it can be frustrating to clean up after them constantly. There are a few things that can be done to minimize brooder explosions.
(Go here for in-depth instructions on what to feed your chickens at all ages.)
Watering
Most baby poultry watering devices look like a rimmed circle dish with a mason jar attachment. I had originally bought one of these and realized it was more annoying than helpful.
While the birds drank out of it, they also perched on – and therefore pooped in – it.
I did some more research and found poultry watering nipples. These were game changing. Not only were they super cheap, they were versatile and much more sanitary.
Each nipple can be installed into any container to provide a single drop of water when tapped.
Provide one nipple for every 4 chicks. Vertical installation tends to work better than horizontal nipples.
No Matter What, Keep the Water Clean
Whichever route you choose for watering, be sure the chicks have access to clean, fresh water at all times.
Water soiled with poop increases risk of infection and severe illness while their little immune systems are still developing.
Choosing a Chicken Coop & Run
Chickens can be moved into the outdoor coop once they are fully feathered and the weather is above 70 degrees during the day.
Choosing a chicken coop is a paralyzing process for some because there are seemingly endless options. Here are the basics:
Provide 4 sqft of chicken coop space per chicken.
Take the measurements yourself and buy larger than you think you’ll need. Chicken math is a real thing. If you have 4 chickens now, you’ll have 9 in 2 years.
Birds that truly free range are tolerant of less indoor space since they’re only inside for inclement weather or to sleep.
Don’t go by the manufacturer’s guidelines.
A coop that is 3’x3′ and advertises the ability to accommodate 6-8 hens is incorrect. 3’x3′ is 9 sqft. That’s only enough space for 2 hens.
Provide one nesting box for every 4 hens.
Hens have no issue sharing. Make sure the nesting boxes are easily accessed and have a locking device to deter egg stealing predators.
Provide 10 sqft of chicken run space for each bird.
This is for those that are not permitted to free range.
Provide 8″ of roosting space for each bird.
Place the roosting poles at a height that is at least 18″ above the nesting boxes.
If the roosting racks are the same height as the nesting boxes, they will poop and sleep in their nesting boxes.
Raising Backyard Chickens – FAQs
Can I Give My Baby Chicks Treats?
Try to withhold the treats until the flock is around 18 weeks old.
Growing chicks require huge amounts of protein with specific nutrient proportions to develop properly and thrive. By giving the flock treats, you are disrupting their nutritional intake.
If anything other than chick starter is given after 6 weeks of age, be sure to provide the flock with chick grit to promote proper digestion.
Do I Need to Bring My Baby Chicks to the Vet?
No, you don’t. You’ll be very hard-pressed to even find a vet that can care for poultry.
Because of the blatant lack of health resources, chicken keepers are well-versed in providing a wide array of medical care for their birds.
At this time, we have no avian vets in the surrounding 100 miles, so I’m it.
Can I Get Salmonella Poisoning From Baby Chicks?
Technically, yes, although it’s uncommon.
Practice common sense by washing your hands thoroughly after contact with any chicks or items that came into contact with the flock.
Make sure children are supervised and also wash their hands before they resume sticking their fingers up their nose or in their mouths.
Disinfect any surfaces after contact.
Can I Get Baby Chicks From Two Different Places? My Friend Has Too Many.
It is unwise to do this for reasons of disease transmission.
While two flocks of backyard chickens may be perfectly healthy on the outside, their immunities are entirely different.
Pathogens can be passed between the two flocks, making many birds very sick.
If you must introduce a foreign bird to an existing flock, be sure to follow standard quarantine guidelines, keeping the new member separate from the others for 30 to 60 days.
When Do Hens Start Laying Eggs?
Hens usually begin to lay eggs around 6 months but may start as early as 18 weeks.
Once they start laying, they should gradually be switched over to a complete layer feed.
Do Hens Lay Eggs All Year Or Seasonally?
Hens generally need about 12-14 hours of daylight to lay an egg.
Once winter comes, most hens stop laying eggs or slow down production dramatically until it gets warmer again.
Although it’s a seasonal event, there are ways to “trick” a hen’s body into laying eggs throughout the year.
What Age Should a Meat Bird Be Butchered?
A Cornish Rock or Cornish Cross is processed at 6 weeks.
Heritage meat birds are slower growing and taken for processing at 16-18 weeks for best weight, texture, and flavor.
As the birds age, the meat toughens and becomes less desirable.
Can I Get a Dual Purpose Hen to Lay Eggs and Then Use for Meat?
You can, but it may not be the most efficient way to go about it.
Hens usually start laying eggs between 18 weeks and 6 months of age. Meat birds are optimally butchered at 18 weeks.
Dual purpose is best defined to mean you can use the breed for either eggs OR meat. Basically, you can buy now and decide later what purpose you want her to serve.
This is in contrast to other breeds, which are specifically bred to be good at laying lots of eggs or growing quickly for quick butchering, not both.
What Is A “Soup Bird”?
Soup birds are ones that have aged beyond common butchering time frames.
Since the meat is tougher, it is best cooked in soups or stews to break down the fibers and produce a more agreeable texture.
What Breeds Do You Have?
Currently, my backyard flock consists of Rhode Island Red, Plymouth (Barred) Rock, Buff Orpington, and Leghorn hens.
We needed breeds that were weather-hardy for cold New York winters, friendly with kids, and high egg producers.
Where Did You Get Your Chicks From?
Cackle Hatchery located in Lebanon, Missouri.
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